For engines where one or more cylinders are low go round the cylinders again putting a teaspoonful of oil into each immediately before testing it, this is a 'wet' test. Later sticks have a fixed 'stop' which wedges into the top of a different tube, first screwed then pressed into the block, meaning that both the stick and the tube determine the oil level. However on the block both edges are stepped, and on the head both are curved, so why that particular feature exists I can't imagine! I replaced my intake with the later version that uses a PCV valve. I could imagine the bolt shearing, and then what would I do! Always look at the bright side of life
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British Car Repair

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Oil leaking out of head on mg midget.

Another neat way of diagnosing a sticking valve is with an adjustable timing light. This locating plate must be fitted with the hole in the lower of the two possible positions. I believe it should be a fibre washer between the gauge and the pipe. How many of us know if our engine has been apart, let alone how many times? Before the stud goes all the way through fit the lock-washer and start the nut. I decided to weaken that carb a tad, and given that it's awkward to turn the HS nuts with the air cleaners on I made a box-spanner , which worked a treat.
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Classic Technologies | Sealing Block

If you tighten the smaller pedestal nuts first that will lift the head off the gasket where valves are open, and the push-rods for closed valves will flop about. I am not running the new rear seal. Yes Prop and I hate to think it but Woe be to anyone who ever scratched a gasket surface, it would never seal again no matter how slight the scratch, no matter how tight the gasket, no matter how much silicone sealer was used. For interest the maximum gap points are as follows: 1 - 8 half-way down 2 - 1 half way up 3 - 4 fully down 4 - 5 half way down 5 - RON point 6 - Just before 5 fully down 7 - 8 just fully down 8 - 1 just started to go down For No. I know that those who love the 3-main MGB engine really, really love them -- especially the higher revving feature.
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However that is dated , and I subsequently found a more comprehensive version here. I'l have a closer look in a minute. Therefore, we are now supplying sealing blocks with properly sized wooden wedges. Then I remembered someone saying many years ago that some engines can suck the bottom hose flat when they are revved. The rad cap has always been difficult to remove, but is now really stiff , almost needing a smaller version of the eared wire-wheel spinner removal tool.
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Mg midget rebuild leaking oil

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